Death Becomes Fashionable in Buenos Aires

The last couple of days, we’ve been living like true Portenos – get up at 12pm, lunch at 1pm, wander around, doing some shopping, afternoon drinks and nibbles 5pm and dinner at 9pm. I have taken to this lifestyle like a duck to water.

Palacio del Congreso can only be admired from afar. Palacio del Paz on one hand is impressive as a family home intended for 9 people, it seems at times tawdry with the fake doors, illegitimate use of French royal prints and even a presidential office. The irony is that Paz never made it as a president as he passed away 2 years before the construction was completed. Apparently these days you can even hire a room in this presidential-palace-wannabe home.

One of the most mention-worth restaurants we’ve been to on the last couple of days were Gran Bar Danzon. They wine list is amazing in two ways. Firstly, it was an iPad. You can read up on the information on the wine you’re about to order and even email the descriptions of the wines to yourself. Secondly, all the wines we tried were amazing, all with a nutty finish but particularly one Viognier with a creamy coconut finish. Oh, delish. Sushi and cocktails is a strange phenomenon in BA. While these two together aren’t usually the most complimentary of each other, they are often offered in many bars/restaurants here. I must say, they have a long way to go with their sushis. They were just plain fucking weird. King crabs & cooked salmon sushi topped with a sweet corn and coriander dressing. It was unsuccessfully avant garde. But their mains however, is like they are from another planet. We ordered duck confit with carrot and sweet potato puree and a handful of toasted almonds. The duck was cooked to perfection the tastes of all the ingredients on the plate were well balanced. Both Cloria and I were sufficiently impressed. Although their sushis are flops, their mains and wines redeemed themselves.

Today we went tomb raiding at the Recoleta Cemetery and paid homage to Evita Peron. The size and scale of it was pretty unimpressive really. But given circumstances surrounding the body after her death, it is understood that they buried her in a fairly low-key fashion. During the tour, I couldn’t help but wonder if some of these were really tombs or they were entries to really swanky night clubs. The designs of some of these tombs were really minimalistic but with exquisite materials, resembling more of ultra-exclusive night clubs.

It doesn’t take much to figure out that Buenos Aires is a pretty superficial city, from the long queues outside exclusive night clubs, palatial renaissance buildings, to grand sculptures around the city. I think after visiting Recoleta Cemetery, it just puts the nail on the coffee. A beautifully decorated marble nail nonetheless.

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